What happens when your rod is broken

It happens to the best of fishers. No matter how careful you try to be - sooner or later your fly rod gets damaged or broken. An eyelet might pop - or a tip gets snapped off - or the cork handles breaks. Nice fly rods are expensive, so buying a new one may not be an option. Often times a rod is never as good as new after a repair. So damaging your favorite rod can be a real set-back. But there is good news. I recently lost two rods back-to-back in different accidents. My Loomis rod was shut in a car door - snapping it in three places. My St. Croix rod was rolled up in a window - snapping off the very end of the tip. But both of these companies are wonderful to work with. I went on-line to the St. Criox site where I found a complete repair report. I filled it out and pressed "send". Just to make sure everything was going to go the way I expected, I called the office in Wisconsin. They assured me that everything was going to be fine. I fill out the model and serial number of my rod. For 30 bucks they send me a brand new top section of rod. No repair. No mailing my old one in. They process my order with 24 hours - and ship the replacement right from the factory. Just think - a 300 dollar rod - repaired - no questions asked - for 30 bucks. And no worries for me. I don't have to package and ship the old one. I don't have to worry that the repair is not as good as the original condition. I get a brand new tip. Next - I placed a similar call to Loomis. All Loomis rods have a lifetime warranty. I thought they would send me a new tip as well. Instead - they send me an entirely new rod - the whole thing - brand new - for 50 bucks. All things considered, I thought it was a great deal.
I checked the web, and Orvis and Sage offer similar warranties. In fact Orvis claims to have been the first to offer this kind of coverage. The good news - if you spend 200, 300 even 12 hundred dollars for a nice rod, you can rest assured you will be in good hands and back on the water soon when you buy from one of these fine suppliers.

Rods

Getting started in fly fishing is fairly easy. Getting a good rod is key. There are many, many kits on the market that come with everything you need – ready to go. If you are just starting out you may not want to spend a great deal on a rod until you see if you like the sport – where you will fish - and how often you will go. Fly rods come in ‘weights’. Really light weight rods are two and three weights. They are good for small fish like brook trout or any place where the fish are less than a pound. Next are four and five weight rods. These are pretty good mid-range rods. I have two, and they are perfect for most trout. Next are six and seven weight rods. These are for a little larger trout. They tend to be stiffer rods and can help you cast a little further. In California you might even need an eight, nine, or ten weight rods. In places like Lake Davis outside Tahoe – or Pyramid Lake outside Reno, Nevada people often catch ten to 20 pound trout. You need a heftier rod for that kind of fishing. The weight and length of the rod is printed on the rod itself, usually just above the ‘handle’ – above where the reel attaches.
Rods also come in various lengths. Beginners, or people fishing in tight quarters might like a 7½ foot rod. Many rods are nine feet long. They also come in various numbers of segments. Some rods are two-piece rods. Some break down in as many as seven pieces. Two-piece rods offer better “feeling” and stability. Seven-piece rods break down into small sections, which are great for packing in a backpack or in a suitcase. But each joint means less flexibility and ‘feeling’ for the angler.
Rods vary in price too. You can find complete kits for as little as $25, and prices go all the way to $1,200 or more, just for the rod. I had two cheap rods that I use as ‘instructional’ rods for newcomers to learn on. One time my wife was casting with a cheap rod and one section flew off in the middle of the cast and landed in the river. Needless to say she now uses my $300 Loomis three weight. I recently saw some very nice looking two-piece, three to five weight rods for $60-$80 at a Dick’s Sporting goods store. I have a pair of St. Coix rods that cost about $150. I really like them.
One advantage to using a guide service is that they usually provide all the equipment you need for the day – including rods and reels – which means you can try a few out and see what you like.

Reels

Reels
There are as many reels out there as there are rods. They range in price between $25 and several hundred dollars. I have two made by Okuma. I use the Sierra model and have had good luck with them. They run about $50 to $60, but handle well. They are rugged enough to perform well, yet not so expensive that I worry about banging them on a rock, or if they should fall into the water. Most reels either come with, or need to be loaded with backing and fly line. Most good sporting good stores or fly shops have machines that can get it done. If you buy from them the service is often free.
When you buy a reel make sure it matches the weight of your rod. I have a three to four weight Sierra reel to go with my three and four weight rods. My second Sierra reel is a five to six, and goes with my heavier rods. Reels also come in a variety of sizes. The newer models are larger in diameter. Having a larger wheel allows more line and backing to be put on. You also do not have to try to grasp a tiny little crank handle, and turn it a zillion times to reel in your fish. The larger wheels make it much easier to bring in a fighting trout.There are a couple of things to consider when choosing a good reel. Make sure you get one that is well made and can withstand rain, and dust and getting banged around. Make sure it can accomodate enough backing. For most trout, this is not a big issue, but if you fish for Salmon or Steelhead, you better have plenty of backing because these guys will run out the entire spool.Get a reel with smooth action and that means nice ball bearings. My favorite reel is made by Orvis. It is one of the oversized versions, and I really like the way it handles and the distribution of weight. The Orvis reel is a dark color, with a brushed metal look. That is something to think about, because I also have a very shinny reel made by Martin. In certain light it can reflect sunlight like a mirror, spooking the fish. The brush metal does not relfect as much.
Many anglers have a spare spool. Most good manufacturers these days make extra spools. You buy the reel, but you can then get a second spool for a little more money. That way you can load two different types of fly lines, and easily switch them while on the river, depending on the situation and the kind of fly line you want.

Getting Started

Fly Lines You will need to select the kind of fly line you want. The fly line is the colored, plastic line. There are two basic types, floating and sinking line. Obviously the floating line floats. The sinking line is usually a lead line that is coated with the colored plastic, and thus - it sinks. The sinking line is good for nymphing, or for when the fish are feeding just below the surface. If you have the luxury of multiple reels or interchangeable spools, go with one of each kind of line. But if you can only have one spool of fly line I suggest getting the floating line because you will be able to dry fly fish with it. However, you can easily nymph using a bead-headed nymph or a little split shot. The jury is still out on the color of the fly line and if that matters. I have a spool of florescent yellow, a salmon pink, and a light green. But I also have a newer spool of moss green. I seem to get a lot of fish on that reel. Is it just coincidence? Or, is that because fish have a harder time seeing the moss green? I'm not sure yet, but it is something to think about. Make sure you get a quality fly line. I have had cheaper brands and I cannot tell you who made them because the reel and line were given to me, so I don't know the maker but it is really hard to straighten out. A couple of days on the reel, and it curls. I go to cast and it curls, making casting more difficult, and in some cases, curling on the water surface and ruining my drift. From time to time you might want to clean your fly line especially if it is a floating line. The line can collect dust, dirt and particles and that causes it to sink a bit. You can get a solution, and you just rub down your line to keep it clean. Many people also un-reel their fly line during the winter months and hang it on a garage wall to keep it from curling too much while not being used.

Welcome

This site is dedicated to fly fishing, in particular, fly fishing for trout. You will find real stories and real information about real places. You can actually see some of the places my contributors and I have been to. We'll show you where we went, what we experienced, and what we learned about each location. The goal is to make your fishing experience enjoyable and successful.I also want to hear from you as well. We can all help each other become better fisherman (or fisher people in the PC world). From time to time I might share general information about some of my most secret locations. As you know, a good fisherman never gives away the exact location of his secret fishin' hole - but I'll be happy to divulge as much useful insight as possible.There is much more to come - so check back soon as our blogspot grows